Books
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The Chronology of Fashion: From Empire Dress to Ethical Design
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"'The Chronology of Fashion' traces the history of fashion from the late 18th century up to the present. Highly illustrated, this book should be a must for anyone interested in fashion and its development."
Call Number: GT580 .S74 2011ISBN: 9781408126370Publication Date: 2011 -
The Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical and Sustainable Fashion
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"From sweatshops to fur farming, from polluting chemicals to painful garments, the fashion industry is associated with activities which have had devastating effects on workers, consumers, and the natural world. This ground-breaking volume provides a framework for examining the ethical, social, and environmental dangers that arise as fashion products are designed, manufactured, distributed, and sold within retail outlets, before being consumed and disposed of. Encompassing the cultural, psychological, and physiological aspects of fashion, it offers a comprehensive exploration of the hazards of a global industry."
Call Number: E-BookISBN: 1350052027Publication Date: 2020 -
Ethical Marketing and the New Consumer
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"What was once just the desire of a few has now become a mass movement. The everyday shopper may still be searching out the value items but now they are also questioning the ethics of products and brands. Ethical products are increasing in sales year on year and those brands that have ignored it as a value are paying in reduced sales. Empowered, the new consumer is using the pound in their pocket to make a point not just a purchase. But ethical marketing isn't just about environmentalism, it's far bigger than that. This book challenges a lot of conventional thinking and introduces you to a wider range of ethics and the many types of ethical consumers. As a brand manager or producer, it'll give you useful tools to help you understand your Key Ethical Values. How to market and sell them. It'll blow away a few myths and probably surprise you with a few new facts and statistics. It looks at the positive and negative sides of big brands. And how to avoid greenwash, ethicalwash and becoming a victim of Brand Terrorism. A must for anyone in the eco-ethical market or who wants to enter it. An essential guide to understanding the new consumer and why they buy, what they buy and what they don't."
Call Number: E-BookISBN: 9780470743027Publication Date: 2009-09-15 -
Fashion Ethics
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"Fashion Ethics provides a comprehensive overview of the ethical issues in the fashion industry, from collection design concept to upcycling and closed loop production. This book answers an urgent need for a comprehensive understanding of the fundamental ethics of the fashion industry. Sue Thomas goes beyond the usual contentious issues of environmental impact and human rights, taking the reader deeper into the endemic issues including sizeism, ageism, animal rights, and the lack of diversity in models and in the media. The book lays out the significant ethical issues within the fashion supply chain by mapping the lifecycle of a garment and exploring key topics such as deep ecology, cultural copyright speciesism, the role of the customer, and technology in future ethics."
Call Number: 9780415531047ISBN: 9780415531047Publication Date: 2017-09-14 -
The Responsible Fashion Company: Integrating Ethics and Aesthetics in the Value Chain
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"In "The Responsible Fashion Company," Rinaldi and Testa argue that the fashion industry is at a crossroads: the need for a global shift to a sustainable model has never been more urgent. Yet, they demonstrate that we are witnessing a revolution led by conscious consumers and enlightened companies, who are redefining the rules of the fashion market. The question is: when will the rest of the industry catch up? Rinaldi and Testa raise a fundamental but often neglected issue in the fashion sustainability debate: long-term equilibrium can only be achieved by integrating economic goals with environmental, social and ethical values. "The Responsible Fashion Company" provides a clear overview of the theory, challenges and opportunities of sustainability in the industry and demonstrates how fashion companies can achieve competitive advantage through sustainable innovation. The authors show how leading fashion companies are challenging traditional thinking and present inspiring examples from pioneers such as Gucci, Levi's, Timberland and Brunello Cucinelli, who create quality products without leaving a negative impact behind. Refreshing and timely, "The Responsible Fashion Company" is essential reading for the socially conscious consumer and anyone with a professional or personal interest in the fashion, design and luxury industries.":
Call Number: E-BookISBN: 9781351285872Publication Date: 2017-09-08 -
Why We Can't Have Nice Things: Social Media's Influence on Fashion, Ethics, and Property
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"In "Why We Can't Have Nice Things," Minh-Ha T. Pham provides a critical discussion of social media's unacknowledged importance to the development of global fashion. In particular, Pham examines the informal and extralegal work social media users do to monitor and regulate the fashion market against an array of "fake" fashion. Practices of "crowdsourced IP regulation" are undertaken in the name of ethical fashion but as Why We Can't Have Nice Things demonstrates, too often, this work relies on and reinforces racist and neocolonial norms, stereotypes, and capitalist logics about what counts as creativity and what counts as copying. The book explains how and why social media is now pivotal to the production and unequal distribution of fashion ethics, property, and value."
Call Number: E-BookISBN: 9781478023210Publication Date: 2022 -
Design and Ethics
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ISBN: 9780203123973Publication Date: 2013The value of design for contributing to environmental solutions and a sustainable future is increasingly recognized. -
Ethics in the Fashion Industry
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Call Number: HF5387 .P38 2020ISBN: 9781563675331Publication Date: 2009Knock-off designer handbags, shoplifting, sweatshop labor, provocative advertising, these are just a few examples of complex ethical issues in the fashion industry today. -
The Garment Industry in Low-Income Countries
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Call Number: HD9940.D462 G37 2014ISBN: 9781137383174Publication Date: 2014This book explores the means through which the garment industry contributes to industrialization, poverty reduction, empowerment of undereducated workers, in particular female laborers, and shared growth in contemporary low-income countries. -
Garments Without Guilt?
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Call Number: https://iucat.iu.edu/catalog/20227736ISBN: 9781108937573Publication Date: 2021Sri Lanka's apparel sector holds an enviable place in the imaginary of its competitors for having a niche position amongst global retailers, given its claims of producing 'garments without guilt'. -
Invisible Hands
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Call Number: JC571 .I67 2014ISBN: 9781938073908Publication Date: 2014The men and women in Invisible Hands reveal the human rights abuses occurring behind the scenes of the global economy. These narrators -- including phone manufacturers in China, copper miners in Zambia, garment workers in Bangladesh, and farmers around the world -- reveal the secret history of the things we buy, including lives and communities devastated by low wages, environmental degradation, and political repression. -
Labor, Global Supply Chains, and the Garment Industry in South Asia
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ISBN: 9781138366800Publication Date: 2019This book argues that larger flaws in the global supply chain must first be addressed to change the way business is conducted to prevent factory owners from taking deadly risks to meet clients' demands in the garment industry in Bangladesh. -
The Responsible Company
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Call Number: HD9948.5.A2 C46 2016ISBN: 9780980122787Publication Date: 2012The Responsible Company, by Yvon Chouinard, founder and owner of Patagonia, and Vincent Stanley, co-editor of its Footprint Chronicles, draw on the their 40 years' experience at Patagonia #150; and knowledge of current efforts by other companies #150; to articulate the elements of responsible business for our time. Patagonia, named by Fortune in 2007 as the coolest company on the planet, has earned a reputation as much for its ground-breaking environmental and social practices as for the quality of its clothes. -
Slave to Fashion
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Call Number: HD8039.C6 M56 2017ISBN: 9781780263984Publication Date: 2017Slave to Fashion is made up of interviews and microdocumentaries with the men, women and children caught in slavery, making the clothes sold on our high streets in Europe and the developing world. -
The Song of the Shirt
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Call Number: HD9850.5 .S43 2015ISBN: 9781849045223Publication Date: 2015Oh, Men, with Sisters dear! Oh, Men, with Mothers and Wives! It is not linen you re wearing out, But human creatures lives! Stitch stitch stitch, In poverty, hunger and dirt, Sewing at once, with a double thread, A Shroud as well as a Shirt. --from The Song of the Shirt by Thomas Hood (1843) -
Unmaking the Global Sweatshop
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Call Number: HD8039.C6 U56 2017ISBN: 9780812249392Publication Date: 2017Anthropologists and ethnographers examine the global garment industry's impact on workers' well-being. -
Unpacking the Fashion Industry
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Call Number: TT504.6.G7 P48 2022ISBN: 9781032406596Publication Date: 2022First Published in 1990 Unpacking the Fashion Industry spotlights a side of the industry the consumer never sees. -
Worn
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Call Number: GT511 .T53 2023ISBN: 9780525566731Publication Date: 2023A sweeping and captivatingly told history of clothing and the stuff it is made of--an unparalleled deep-dive into how everyday garments have transformed our lives, our societies, and our planet.
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Fur: A Sensitive History
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"A groundbreaking, informative, and thought-provoking exploration of fur's fashionable and controversial history The first and only book of its kind, "Fur: A Sensitive History" looks at the impact of fur on society, politics, and, of course, fashion. This material has a long, complex, and rich history, culminating in recent and ongoing anti-fur debates. Jonathan Faiers discusses how fur--long praised for its warmth, softness, and connotation of status--became so controversial, at the center of campaigns against animal cruelty and the movement toward ethical fashion. At the same time, fake fur now faces a backlash of its own, given the environmental impact of its manufacture and its links to fast fashion. Divided into five sections--dedicated to hair, pelt, coat, skin, and fleece--the book surveys not only the politics of fur but also its centrality to western fashion, the tactile pleasure it gives, and its use in literature, art, and film. This thoughtfully reasoned, eloquently written, and spectacularly illustrated examination of fur is both timely and essential, filling a gap in fashion scholarship and appealing to a broad audience."
ISBN: 9780300227208Publication Date: 2020-10-06 -
Victims of Fashion: Animal Commodities in Victorian Britain
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"Animal products were used extensively in nineteenth-century Britain. A middle-class Victorian woman might wear a dress made of alpaca wool, drape herself in a sealskin jacket, brush her hair with a tortoiseshell comb, and sport feathers in her hat. She might entertain her friends by playing a piano with ivory keys or own a parrot or monkey as a living fashion accessory. In this innovative study, Helen Cowie examines the role of these animal-based commodities in Britain in the long nineteenth century and traces their rise and fall in popularity in response to changing tastes, availability, and ethical concerns. Focusing on six popular animal products - feathers, sealskin, ivory, alpaca wool, perfumes, and exotic pets - she considers how animal commodities were sourced and processed, how they were marketed and how they were consumed. She also assesses the ecological impact of nineteenth-century fashion."
Call Number: GT737 .C75 2022ISBN: 9781108495172Publication Date: 2021-11-18
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Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment
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"Unpicks the knotty problem of cultural appropriation in fashion and entertainment, using sociological analysis to explore international examples and engage with the passionate debates that surround them as well as the implications for designers, artists and consumers."
Call Number: E-BookISBN: 9781350170575Publication Date: 2022 -
The Knockoff Economy: How Imitation Sparks Innovation
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"From the shopping mall to the corner bistro, knockoffs are everywhere in today's marketplace. Conventional wisdom holds that copying kills creativity, and that laws that protect against copies are essential to innovation--and economic success. But are copyrights and patents always necessary? In The Knockoff Economy, Kal Raustiala and Christopher Sprigman provocatively argue that creativity can not only survive in the face of copying, but can thrive. The Knockoff Economy approaches the question of incentives and innovation in a wholly new way--by exploring creative fields where copying is generally legal, such as fashion, food, and even professional football. By uncovering these important but rarely studied industries, Raustiala and Sprigman reveal a nuanced and fascinating relationship between imitation and innovation. In some creative fields, copying is kept in check through informal industry norms enforced by private sanctions. In others, the freedom to copy actually promotes creativity. High fashion gave rise to the very term "knockoff," yet the freedom to imitate great designs only makes the fashion cycle run faster--and forces the fashion industry to be even more creative. Raustiala and Sprigman carry their analysis from food to font design to football plays to finance, examining how and why each of these vibrant industries remains innovative even when imitation is common. There is an important thread that ties all these instances together--successful creative industries can evolve to the point where they become inoculated against--and even profit from--a world of free and easy copying. And there are important lessons here for copyright-focused industries, like music and film, that have struggled as digital technologies have made copying increasingly widespread and difficult to stop."
Call Number: E-BookISBN: 9780195399783Publication Date: 2012-09-17
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The Fight for Ethical Fashion: The Origins and Interactions of the Clean Clothes Campaign
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"From consumer boycotts and buycotts to social movement campaigns, examples of individual and collective actors forging political struggles on markets are manifold. The clothing market has been a privileged site for such contention, with global clothing brands and retailers being targets of consumer mobilization for the past 20 years. Labels and product lines now attest for the ethical quality of clothes, which has, in turn, given rise to ethical fashion. The Fight for Ethical Fashion unveils the actors and processes that have driven this market transformation through a detailed study of the Europe-wide coordinated campaign on workers' rights in the global textile industry - the Clean Clothes Campaign. Drawing on insights from qualitative fieldwork using a wide range of empirical sources, Philip Balsiger traces the emergence of this campaign back to the rise of 'consumer campaigns' and shows how tactics were adapted to market contexts in order to have retailers adopt and monitor codes of conduct. By comparing the interactions between campaigners and their corporate targets in Switzerland and France (two countries with a very different history of consumer mobilization for political issues), this ground-breaking book also reveals how one campaign can provoke contrasting reactions and forms of market change."
Call Number: TT496.E85 B35 2014ISBN: 9781409458050Publication Date: 2014-09-03 -
Killer Style: How Fashion has Injured, Maimed, and Murdered through History
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"The clothes we wear every day keep us comfortable, protect us from the elements, and express our unique style--but could fashion also be fatal? As it turns out, history is full of fashions that have harmed or even killed people. From silhouette-cinching corsets and combustible combs to lethal hair dyes and flammable flannel, this nonfiction book looks back at the times people have suffered pain, injury, and worse, all in the name of style. Historical examples like the tragic "Radium Girl" watchmakers and mercury-poisoned "Mad Hatters," along with more recent factory accidents, raise discussion of unsafe workplaces--where those who make the clothes are often fashion's first victims. Co-authored by a scholar in the history of textiles and dress with the founder of WORN Fashion Journal, this book is equal parts fab and frightening: a stylishly illustrated mash-up of STEAM content, historical anecdotes, and chilling stories. Nonfiction features including sidebars, sources, an index, and a list of further reading will support critical literacy skills and digging deeper with research on this topic."
Call Number: 391.009 MCMISBN: 9781771472531Publication Date: 2019-04-15 -
Over-Dressed: the Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion
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Like "The Omnivore's Dilemma" did for food, "Overdressed" shows us the way back to feeling good about what we wear. Fast fashion and disposable clothing have become our new norms. We buy ten-dollar shoes from Target that disintegrate within a month and make weekly pilgrimages to Forever 21 and H&M. Elizabeth Cline argues that this rapid cycle of consumption isn't just erasing our sense of style and causing massive harm to the environment and human rights-it's also bad for our souls. Cline documents her own transformation from fast-fashion addict to conscientious shopper. She takes a long look at her overstuffed closet, resoles her cheap imported boots, travels to the world's only living-wage garment factory, and seeks out cutting-edge local and sustainable fashion, all on her journey to find antidotes to out-of-control shopping. Cline looks at the impact here and abroad of America's drastic increase in inexpensive clothing imports, visiting cheap-chic factories in Bangladesh and China and exploring the problems caused by all those castoffs we donate to the Salvation Army. She also shows how consumers can vote with their dollars to grow the sustainable clothing industry, reign in the conventional apparel market, and wear their clothes with pride.
Call Number: HD9940.A2 C54 2012ISBN: 9781591844617Publication Date: 2012-06-14 -
Slaves to Fashion: Poverty and Abuse in the New Sweatshops
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A provocative and accessible history and study of the sweatshop and a major contribution to the debate over its rebirth
Call Number: HD2337 .R67 2004ISBN: 0472109413Publication Date: 2004-10-06 -
Sweatshop Warriors: Immigrant Women Workers Take on the Global Factory
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"Summarizing the histories of Chinese, Mexican, and Korean immigration, Sweatshop Warriors examines the practices and policies that propel women, men, and children into dangerous and poorly paid jobs."
Call Number: HD6057.5 .U5 L68 2001ISBN: 9780896086388Publication Date: 2001-07-01
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Fashion and Age: Dress, the Body and Later Life
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"Throughout history certain forms and styles of dress have been deemed appropriate - or more significantly, inappropriate - for people as they age. Older women in particular have long been subject to social pressure to tone down, to adopt self-effacing, covered-up styles. But increasingly there are signs of change, as older women aspire to younger, more mainstream, styles, and retailers realize the potential of the 'grey market'. Fashion and Age is the first study to systematically explore the links between clothing and age, drawing on fashion theory and cultural gerontology to examine the changing ways in which age is imagined, experienced and understood in modern culture through the medium of dress. Clothes lie between the body and its social expression, and the book explores the significance of embodiment in dress and in the cultural constitution of age.Drawing on the views of older women, journalists and fashion editors, and clothing designers and retailers, it aims to widen the agenda of fashion studies to encompass the everyday dress of the majority, shifting the debate about age away from its current preoccupation with dependency, towards a fuller account of the lived experience of age. Fashion and Age will be of great interest to students of fashion, material culture, sociology, sociology of age, history of dress and to clothing designers."
Call Number: E-BookISBN: 9781472520128Publication Date: 2013-12-26 -
Fat Fashion: The Thin Ideal and the Segregation of Plus-Size Bodies
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"Average body mass in many Western cultures is getting larger and yet the fashion system seems mostly unchanged. Major fashion houses still limit their output to small sizes and the dominant ideal of the female body in fashion imagery is still thin - dangerously thin according to World Health Organization standards. Why is the industry forfeiting a considerable share of the market in the form of plus-size consumers, seemingly against its commercial interests? Why does the thin ideal reign supreme despite damning evidence of its harm to women? And is there a way out of this system of thin ideals and segregated fat bodies? In this original study, Paolo Volonté answers these questions and more, drawing on influential literature on the body, beauty standards and the roles of clothing in society. He reveals some surprising factors behind the perpetuation of the thin ideal such as the precedent of thin models and the introduction of standardised sizing for mass-manufactured clothing. He also revisits less surprising factors such as the attitudes of designers and consumers towards the female body, and notions of 'perfection'. By critically analysing these factors, Volonté reveals why plus-size fashion is often characterised by 'low aesthetic commitment' and low quality marketing. He explores the nature of the segregation of fat bodies in fashion and considers what the future may hold for consumers, designers and marketers alike."
Call Number: TT507 .V635 2022ISBN: 9781350126930Publication Date: 2021-10-07 -
Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women
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"Christy, Naomi, Cindy, Linda. So famous they don't need last names. The images of these modern-day goddesses are everywhere we turn, worshipped by men and women alike. They're on magazine covers, and in print and TV ads; they host TV shows, endorse products, write novels, marry rock stars, act in films, and open restaurants. They dominate the gossip columns and tabloid front pages. They stir up a million fantasies." "The international obsession with supermodels is fueled by more than the accident of great looks. Behind the few women in this most exclusive sorority is a vast army of photographers, designers, stylists, agents, publicists, fashion editors, and advertisers - an entire industry dedicated to desire." "No one desires more than the models themselves. Their tool kits must contain fiery ambition along with their war paint and brushes. No wonder that behind the smoke and mirrors, more than a few models get burned." "Here for the first time is the complete story of the international model business - and its evil twin: legalized flesh peddling. It's a tale of vast sums of money, rape both symbolic and of the flesh, sex and drugs, obsession and tragic death. At its heart is the most unholy combination in commerce: beautiful, young women and rich, horny men."
Call Number: HD9999.M642 G76 1995ISBN: 0688126596Publication Date: 1995-04-01
